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Happytravelling : Quelle que soit la durée du voyage, où qu'il nous amène, celui-ci sera inoubliable...
17 novembre 2009

Water in all its forms

Many lakes is nice, a little snow is fun, humidity in the kombi is far from ideal, a lot of rain is just the worst!
Since our stop in Junin de los Andes, two weeks ago, we only have had a few days without rain. The whole area had a very poor winter with too little snow. We fell in the catch-up session...
When we arrive in Junin, we meet Anna, that we had previously contacted through the website www.hospitalityclub.org (site that allows you to contact locals when traveling in a foreign country, whether it is to visit together or to request accommodation. Everything is free and simply based on the willingness of people to meet travelers to experience new cultures. In our case, we have our combi to sleep in so we only use the site to meet new people.) We spend several hours with her drinking mate and talking in the sun and then let her go to work. Junin being located near the Lanin volcano, we check information to climb it but prices are prohibitive so we quickly give up the idea. Getting out of a travel agency, we meet Seb and Elisa, a French couple who is travelling around the world, spend the rest of the day with them and decide to go for a walk at the base of the volcano the next day.

Very nice day, but the first rain of our trip comes to shorten it.


The rainstorm in Buenos Aires in late August had made us aware of the leaking windows of the combi and had forced us to repair them. After an entire night in the rain, we are a little afraid to find other leaks (fear that will be proved right a few days later) and plus the humidity in the combi is just too high so we decide to find her a roof. Problem quickly resolved, thanks to someone we had met the previous day who owns a small shop in a former gas station and therefore with a huge roof. The rain doesn’t stop, so we spent two whole days without doing much. Only a few hours of pure fun with three Argentineans, including Damian who is crossing the country on his bicycle.

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Motivated to go trekking in the region, we want to wait for the end of the rain but the forecast is bad, so at the first clearing we get out to our next stop, San Martin de los Andes, with the hope of finding a nicer climate. Clearing of short duration and a snowstorm catches us on the road. Once in San Martin, we realize that our choice to leave was not the most intelligent and think about going back to Junin under our so dear roof but then an angel comes to meet us, Patricia, who saw our sticker happytravelling and wishes us "feliz viaje”. Devin or simply someone with a big heart, she knows exactly what we need without us asking for it and offers to help us: a roof for our combi, a shower and a washing machine to get the accumulated laundry done. Having a busy schedule for the day, she tells us to come to her house the next day.

In the afternoon, we meet by chance Seb and Elisa with whom we have a drink and then go to their hostel for a “crepes” night.

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On Saturday, after going to Patricia’s, we meet Damian who managed to make the journey from Junin during a clearing. Evening with him and Matias, met on Hospitalityclub, who has already crossed Argentina in a Citroen with one of his friends. Very cool.

Sunday, day without rain! Lunch with Mario and his girlfriend, also met on Hospitalityclub, who invited us to come to their great house in the forest outside of the city, then a walk. We return that evening to Patricia’s who invites us to sleep over so as not to be in the humidity of the combi because the rain is starting again. We accept with pleasure and as the rain doesn’t stop, we stay until Thursday, the day they leave for the weekend. Hoping to eventually do a few hikes, we stay in San Martin, but once again the climate is not on our side and the sun only appears on Sunday. Walk on the hills of San Martin, superb. Other evening with Matias.

On Monday, second day without rain, we decide to leave because the road that leads up to Villa La Angostura is mostly a dirt road and sunny Sunday allowed the mud to dry.

San Martin, lovely town situated in an exceptional place gave us a nice social life that at least made it up for this horrible weather that doesn’t want to let go and prevents us from doing many things.

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Story aside :  a bit angry with the regulation of the mountains in the region! In Las Lenas, it was not possible to ski off-tracks or go touring where I wanted because everything was regulated. In San Martin, the season is finished so the resort (Cerro Chapelco) is closed and it is not possible to go ski touring there because the mountain is privately owned! Other mountains are located within a national park: it is not possible to go trekking over there because there is snow and so the trails are closed and forbidden. "There is snow? Perfect, I'm going to ski touring." Oh no, it is not possible because it must be with a guide ... let´s look for a guide ... Ah, this is not the season and so they are all doing something else... I guess knowing the area or knowing some people everything must be possible, but as a tourist I have to say that such a regulation that prevents from doing anything really sucks (to stay polite).


The road between San Martin and Villa La Angostura "el camino de los siete lagos" is so beautiful. (Too bad the photos are not that good because of the clouds.)

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In Villa La Angostura, another Hospitalityclub contact welcomes us to his home and even has a small apartment he lends us so that we are more comfortable! So nice. The rain comes back in the afternoon.
Providence clearly being on our side, walking on a path we meet Pierre, of Russian origin, born in France, who has been living in Argentina for the past sixty years who offers us a roof for our combi and also a house right by the lake just for us! A beautiful place where once again we wait for the rain to take a break so we can enjoy the mountains.

Event that finally arrives Friday and allows us to do a small trekking (with20 centimeters of snow!).



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We spend the Saturday afternoon with Pierre and Ana in their very nice house overlooking the lake of Villa la Angostura and then leave on Sunday morning for Bariloche.

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Happytravelling : Quelle que soit la durée du voyage, où qu'il nous amène, celui-ci sera inoubliable...
  • «Un voyage se passe de motifs. Il ne tarde pas à prouver qu'il se suffit à lui-même. On croit qu'on va faire un voyage, mais bientôt c'est le voyage qui vous fait ou vous défait.» Nicolas Bouvier (L'usage du monde)
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